Otres Beach

If you want to run away from the chaos of Sihanoukville, just a few kilometers away you will find Otres Beach, a small touristic village totally built on the seaside. Guesthouse are the only "buildings" of the areas, if we can call them so. Most of have small bungalows right on the beach, built in wood and bamboos, from where you can enjoy the stunning show of the sun setting behind the sea.

Mainly inhabited by expats, it has actually no main attraction beyond its wonderful beaches made of white sand, its crystal water and its views. So if you are looking for a place to relax and enjoy the sea, this is the place.


Around Otres you won't find much to do, but one thing that I highly recommend is the tour of the small islands in front of it. If you have any bases in sailing, then you can rent a small sailing boat for $30 to $70 for an half day and reach the islands by your own. In alternative, you can just take one of the many motorboat offered by locals. It will take you no longer than an hour to get to the closest, even with bad wind.

When night comes, you can have a barbecue on the beach, drinking fruit jus and tasting the delicious sea food for a very cheap price.

Wat Banan

This small complex of temples is situated around 20 km south from Battambang, and easily reachable by scooter or tuk-tuk by following street #1.

With his five-towers structure, it reminds a bit the site of Angkor Wat, but in a much smaller scale, so if you haven't been there yet it worth the shot.

Once you passed the main entrance, you will face a huge flight of steps that will bring you right up to the top of the 70-mt hill where the temples are. If you are worried about the heat, well, you shouldn't. A young khmer that will be happy to cool you with a fan, telling you something about the temple and hoping for a small tip. The steep steps up to the temple are worth the effort as there are stunning panoramic views from the top on the valley and on its endless paddies, as well as on the site of Phnom Sampeu.

About Wat Banan, we know that it was a Buddhist temple, but uncertain is the date of its built (somewhere around 10th and 13th century).  The five corn-on-the-cob towers have well resisted to time, as well as the detailed stone lintels, whereas several of the carving have lost their heads to vandals (but a few are still in quite good conditions).

Tonlé Bati

Tonlé Bati is a small lake, 30km south of Phnom Penh. It is one of the favorites locations for khmer people, that use to spend their weekends chilling out on the lakeside. You can rent a little hut for less than $1 and have a picnic with your own food on the lake. In alternative, you can order some fresh food at one of the many small restaurant that you will find on the lakeside.

Battambang

Battambang is a small province in the north of Cambodia, capital of the province of Battambang, around 300km north-west away from Phnom Penh.

The city of Battambang merges perfectly two different elements: you will find colonial architecture from the french era, together with typical khmer buildings. Colonnades houses and colonial balconies overlook the riverside, where tons of small local bars are serving meals all day long.

The city center is very small, in an half day you will probably be able to most of the interesting things. Even more if you are willing to rent a bike or a scooter (which is always practical).

A short history

Although many explanation have been given on the origin of its name, the most commune is the one that refers to the legend of Preah Bat Dambang Kranhouhg. Litteraly, it means "to lose the stick". The story tells about a giant that became king and, due to fight an enemy, he throws his stick at him, but miss the target. Impacting the ground, the stick creates a river, called « O Dambang », that gave the name to the city. 

Historically, it has been an agglomerated of houses more than a real town up to the french colonization in 1907. The traces of french passage in the area are clearly identifiable, with all the colonial buildings and road patterns that remind something of the old continent.

What to see

The Central Market (Psar Nat) is a typical example of khmer architecture, with a big cement structure. 

It is obviously way different from way different from the markets of Phnom Penh. Here you won't get harassed by sellers and you can really take your time to chose your items or to take a tour. Early morning hours are definitely the best to see the market, when it wakes up and its sellers bring their products in.

The Governor House, an example of the french influence in matter of architecture, with his columns and garden in perfect colonial style.

The Wat(s) (Damrey Sar, Phiphétaram, Kampheng), pagodas and small neighbors inside the town. I was pretty astonished by some decoration elements outside the Wat Damrey Sar, like a statue of a man with an open stomach with vultures on him, eating its interiors.

The Bamboo Train is one of the "classic" rail journey. Actually, to call it "train" you have to be brave: it consist of a 3 meters wood frame covered by bamboos, leaning on  two barbell bogies. The departure is in O Dambong, 3.5 km south of Battambang's Old Stone Bridge, and it runs southeast for around half an hour along warped, misaligned railways and vertiginous bridges left by the French.

The Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus, is a non-profit Cambodian association working with vulnerable children, young adults and their families through three interweaving fields of intervention: Arts schools, Social support and Educational programs. In Battambang, they perform twice a week and it really worth the show.

Phnom Sampeau

In the countryside of Battambang, about 12 km south, there is a wonderful and magic place called Phnom Sampeau. Two temples of the Angkor period are standing on a hill surrounded by nature. Trees and cliffs have protected the village during the 'old days and preserved the place intact.



To go up, you can chose a paved road - less wearisome but less suggestive as well - or a steep flight of steps. Whichever is your decision, before going take a look to the huge statue of Buddha that is nestled into the rocky base of the hill (due to a lack of founds, only the upper part has been liberated from the stone).





Probably the best time to be there is for the sunset, when sunbeams reflect on the golden temples and the sound of bats increases like a crescendo. Watching the sun setting on the top of the hill is an amazing show, that you definitely have to see. From there, you will have an open view on the valley and on the main hill of the area, the Phnom Krapeu (Crocodile Mountain), an old khmer stronghold.

Beware of the macaques, who will approach you only for food and they can get pretty aggressive if they don't get any from you. But there's nothing to be scared about, just pay attention.

This place is also known (unluckily) for the so-called killing caves, where during the khmer regime people were bludgeoned to death and then tossed into holes.

Koh Rong Samloem

In the southern region of Sihanoukville, there is a tiny island called Koh Rong Samloem. It is reachable by boat in a couple of hours from the port of Sihanoukville. The word "Samloem" in khmer means "far out and hard to discern".

There are only three inhabited parts of the island, separated by a few kilometers of jungle. People here live of tourism (several bungalows structures are present) and fishing. The territory is mainly hilly, with two mountains, and its whole surface is covered entirely by jungle.

Once you dock you will find wonderful white beaches or sandstone rock formations, a crystalline warm water and the sharp sound of cicadas. The two main bays (with tourist resorts) are one East (Chhak Saracen) and one West (Lazy Beach side). You should definitely try to see the sunrise on one bay and the sunset on the other.

The passage between the two coasts has to be done through the jungle. It takes around 40 minutes to get from one side to the other. There is a path that you can follow, made by the french but it isn't in great conditions. You'd better have trekking shoes (and a bit sense of direction!).

On both sides you can do snorkeling and diving, all the equipment can be founded at the scuba diving centers. There are some wonderful fishes to see, but as long as you stay close to the human settlement you will probably be able to see only some huge sea urchins, some wonderful nudibranch and a few scared little fishes (but still colorful). You could also rent a kayak and get farther: in one hour or so you can reach some little, quiet beaches

There's one funny thing that you can do. Have a swim at night, when the sun has gone and the sky is dark. Shake your arms into the water and you will see billions of glowing planktons lighting up, making a wonderful picture with the stars above.

One last thing: during the days that I've been there, it rained. Even if you might think that being on an island like this when it rains it's not what you've been waiting for, the show is amazing.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

One of the darkest pages of the history of Cambodia are the "three years, eight months and twenty days" of the Kampuchea Democratic Republic, that between 1975 and 1979 brought to death over 1,5 millions people. 

Photo of the inside court (Wikipedia ©)

Most of the evidences of this atrocity can be seen at the Tuol Sleng museum, also known as S-21, an old school used by the Khmer Rouge as an high security prison at first and then transformed into the main custody camp and torture structure of the country, where over 17,000 people - rebels, intellectuals as well as some foreigners - have been imprisoned and killed during the regime.

It is located on street 113 and the entrance costs $2. The complete tour will take around one hour, and is something that I strongly recommend if you want to understand something more about the recent history of the country. It is, by the way, something very strong. If you are sensibles, maybe you should consider the idea of not going there.

The structure is divided into 4 buildings that surround a central court, where today you will find the 14 graves of the very last victims of Pol Pot's army, killed when the Vietnamese army was liberating Phnom Penh.

The very first thing that you will see entering the site, is a list of the rules (in a literal translation from khmer) that had to be followed by prisoners:

1. You must answer accordingly to my question. Don’t turn them away.
2. Don’t try to hide the facts by making pretexts this and that, you are strictly prohibited to contest me.
3. Don’t be a fool for you are a chap who dare to thwart the revolution.
4. You must immediately answer my questions without wasting time to reflect.
5. Don’t tell me either about your immoralities or the essence of the revolution.
6. While getting lashes or electrification you must not cry at all.
7. Do nothing, sit still and wait for my orders. If there is no order, keep quiet. When I ask you to do something, you must do it right away without protesting.
8. Don’t make pretext about Kampuchea Krom in order to hide your secret or traitor.
9. If you don’t follow all the above rules, you shall get many lashes of electric wire.
10. If you disobey any point of my regulations you shall get either ten lashes or five shocks of electric discharge. 

Building A

Is the first building that you will visit if you follow the direction of the tour. It was the area where tortures took place. Some of the instruments, as well as the camp bed where prisoners were enchained, have been left there. On the wall, the photos of the last tortured bodies that have been founded by the Vietnamese. Traces of blood are printed indelibly on the floor.
Detention cells can be founded as well.

Building B

The second building has been used as exposition site: all the photos of the victims can be founded here (often before and after the tortures), as well as the witnesses of the survived. Many panels have been installed to explain the history of the regime and of the camp.

Building C

The third, was a detention one. Small cells (1x2m), made in bricks or in wood. Try to get inside and to close the door. If you feel some empathy, you can imagine how hard would have been to be forced to live in there. The whole building is covered by barbed wire, to avoid prisoners to commit suicide.

Building D

Torture instruments can be founded here, together with some witnesses and photos of the victims.

The National Museum of Phnom Penh

If you want to discover the ancient history of Cambodia, then you should take sometime to visit the National Museum. A beautiful building in the very city centre, built around the 1920, where you will find the most beautiful sculptures and tools of the khmer culture, since his very beginning.

It is divided in four areas, that surround a nice inside garden where a statue of Buddah is standing.

The inside garden

Most of the sculptures represents the Hindu's gods and goddess. Three are the main figures : Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. These three, part of a trinity, have each one a defined role. Brahma is the creator of the universe, Vishnu is the preserver and Shiva is the destroyer.

Once you are inside the museum, there are several statues that you cannot miss. One of the first that you will find is the upper part of a bronze-made Vishna, which dates the Angkor period (XIth century).

If you proceed in the direction of the tour, you will pass through a big room where you will see the evolution of the khmer sculpture, from the pre-Angkor period. You will notice the transition from the human forms (influence of the Indian culture) to the spirituals (around the Vth and the VIIIth).

Two of the most impressive sculptures that you will find on your way, are the Vishnu with eight-arms and the Harihara's, where the attributes of Shiva and Vishnu merge together.

Statue of two fighting monkeys

Then, you will find is an enormous statue of two monkeys fighting (picture), and the wonderful statue of Jayavarman, considered the first king of the Khmer empire, sitting in a meditative posture, with his head slightly recumbent.

You will also find a huge number of potteries and bronzes, as well as more modern tools and objects, such as a wonderful royal barge.

The entrance price is $5 (photos are not allowed inside), and for a few dollars more you will get a guided tour as well.

Meta House

The entrance of Meta House

The Meta House is probably THE cultural centre of the town. An open-air theatre managed by Germans, that offers everyday (around 7pm) a rich range of documentaries and shorts, mainly focused on the problems of Cambodia, as well as of other south-eastern countries. Often, you will also find nice concerts and expositions.


All the projections are completely free and, normally, after the show there is a debate with the producers. The public is mostly composed by Expats, NGO's workers and activists. It is the place you want to go to if you are someone involved in social.

Have a beer and eat some sausages, take your time to talk with the people around you. It will be a very enriching experience.

This is definitely one of the place that you can't miss if you are living the city.



For more information, visit the official website at meta-house.com

Koh Dach and Koh Okhna Tey, the Silk Islands

If you are looking for the "real" Cambodia, not far away from the chaos of Phnom Penh (5km north) you will find two little islands: Koh Dach and Koh Okhna Tey. These are most known by foreigners as the Silk Islands, due to the main activity of their inhabitants: weave silk.

Sunset on the ferryboat

To get there, you have to take an old ferry to traverse the Mekong river, and you will be there within 5 minutes. The price is 500r (less than $0.15) per person, plus 500r if you have a scooter/bike/car.

You will dock on the smallest island, Koh Okhna Tey, which has the best roads and infrastructures, whereas the biggest, Koh Dach, is much wilder, especially if you go all the way north.

People are very kind here. They don't see so many tourists around, so you will definitely the attraction of the day. Many of them will ask you to come and see how they work silk (and, of course, they hope you will buy something!). If you don't feel like going, you can just politely refuse (In my opinion, with a smile everything works better). Anyway, don't be afraid to take some time to talk to the locals, you will have an unique experience. Furthermore, if you have a camera and you are not afraid to use it, they - especially kids - won't be bothered at all to talk with you and/or pose for you.

                     

Koh Okhna Tey

The temple of Koh Okhna Tey

As I said, this is the smallest island. I strongly recommend to take some time to get lost on the island, as you will see some amazing things over there. You will find hospitals, schools and pagodas, as well as a wonderful - but unfortunately abandoned - ancient theatre and what remains of a monarch guest house.

The theatre is surrounded by wild nature, and if you follow the footbridge you will see a beautiful construction - that I guess it was some kind of temple long time ago. It is kept in good condition (and it is probably the only thing around here), with painted statues of Hindu Gods and Goddess.

Koh Dach

Koh Dach

The wildest and the biggest of the two island, it offers the best landscape and pictures of the area: big fields, lakes, small farms and grazing animals all over. If you go in the northern part, you will find a kind of "picnic" area, right on the Mekong, where you can spend some time relaxing and enjoying the wonderful view of the river, maybe tasting some fresh mango! And, if you are brave enough, you can also try to dive into the stream, as locals do...

Little Noodle Shop

The brand new signboard

The Little Noodle Shop is a nice small khmer restaurant in the city centre, just a few minutes away from the riverside.

The owner, a young cambodian girl, is very kind and speaks perfectly english. If you are around the area, you should definitely take some time to go there.

Noodle soup with pork dumplings

The main dishes are soups, dumplings and noodles, which are hand-made right in front of you by a young khmer (video). They taste delicious. [I strongly recommend the noodles soup with pork dumplings] 

Prices are affordable, around $2.50 per dish and $0.50 per beer.

Welcome to the pearl of Asia

The first thing that you notice arriving in Phnom Penh is his huge traffic jams. Scooters all over, tuk tuk driving in the middle of the road and huge luxury vehicles.

If you choose to go around with a tuk tuk (definitely the nicest way to move in town), and you take a look around, you will find since the very beginning the dichotomy of this country : huge villas with people sleeping on the road right in front of them, old scooters and brand new Lexus, lounge bars and street-made aperitifs, huge malls and small markets It is a strange mix of occidental and asian cultures. Something like an asiatization of the western culture.

But people here don't seem stressed at all. Especially if you are a gringo - and, trust me, you are easily recognizable - the first reaction of the khmers will be to smile at you. Most of them don't speak a word in english, but they use the universal language of the body to communicate with you.

Maybe it is because of their politeness, or maybe just because tourists are a huge economical resource, but they will always try to help you, even if they don't have any idea of what you are talking about. It is nice, as long as you are not in a hurry. But going around for hours on a tuk tuk before you realize that the driver has absolutely no idea of where to go, even if might be an unique experience, is not exactly what you are looking for. [You'd better have a map on you and show where you want to go in that case...]

Tuk tuk and scooters rule the town

If you have ever been to Naples (Italy) or to Morocco, you will see a lot of similitudes. Personally, I did. The huge number of scooters, the way they buzz like flies in the (perennial) traffic jams, the continuous sound of horns and the total anarchy at the traffic lights are only some of the point in common.

Life is on the street here. Everything seems coordinated by chaos. An harmonic chaos. You will have the impression that in this huge mess, everything is in the right place.