Phnom Sampeau

In the countryside of Battambang, about 12 km south, there is a wonderful and magic place called Phnom Sampeau. Two temples of the Angkor period are standing on a hill surrounded by nature. Trees and cliffs have protected the village during the 'old days and preserved the place intact.



To go up, you can chose a paved road - less wearisome but less suggestive as well - or a steep flight of steps. Whichever is your decision, before going take a look to the huge statue of Buddha that is nestled into the rocky base of the hill (due to a lack of founds, only the upper part has been liberated from the stone).





Probably the best time to be there is for the sunset, when sunbeams reflect on the golden temples and the sound of bats increases like a crescendo. Watching the sun setting on the top of the hill is an amazing show, that you definitely have to see. From there, you will have an open view on the valley and on the main hill of the area, the Phnom Krapeu (Crocodile Mountain), an old khmer stronghold.

Beware of the macaques, who will approach you only for food and they can get pretty aggressive if they don't get any from you. But there's nothing to be scared about, just pay attention.

This place is also known (unluckily) for the so-called killing caves, where during the khmer regime people were bludgeoned to death and then tossed into holes.

Koh Rong Samloem

In the southern region of Sihanoukville, there is a tiny island called Koh Rong Samloem. It is reachable by boat in a couple of hours from the port of Sihanoukville. The word "Samloem" in khmer means "far out and hard to discern".

There are only three inhabited parts of the island, separated by a few kilometers of jungle. People here live of tourism (several bungalows structures are present) and fishing. The territory is mainly hilly, with two mountains, and its whole surface is covered entirely by jungle.

Once you dock you will find wonderful white beaches or sandstone rock formations, a crystalline warm water and the sharp sound of cicadas. The two main bays (with tourist resorts) are one East (Chhak Saracen) and one West (Lazy Beach side). You should definitely try to see the sunrise on one bay and the sunset on the other.

The passage between the two coasts has to be done through the jungle. It takes around 40 minutes to get from one side to the other. There is a path that you can follow, made by the french but it isn't in great conditions. You'd better have trekking shoes (and a bit sense of direction!).

On both sides you can do snorkeling and diving, all the equipment can be founded at the scuba diving centers. There are some wonderful fishes to see, but as long as you stay close to the human settlement you will probably be able to see only some huge sea urchins, some wonderful nudibranch and a few scared little fishes (but still colorful). You could also rent a kayak and get farther: in one hour or so you can reach some little, quiet beaches

There's one funny thing that you can do. Have a swim at night, when the sun has gone and the sky is dark. Shake your arms into the water and you will see billions of glowing planktons lighting up, making a wonderful picture with the stars above.

One last thing: during the days that I've been there, it rained. Even if you might think that being on an island like this when it rains it's not what you've been waiting for, the show is amazing.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

One of the darkest pages of the history of Cambodia are the "three years, eight months and twenty days" of the Kampuchea Democratic Republic, that between 1975 and 1979 brought to death over 1,5 millions people. 

Photo of the inside court (Wikipedia ©)

Most of the evidences of this atrocity can be seen at the Tuol Sleng museum, also known as S-21, an old school used by the Khmer Rouge as an high security prison at first and then transformed into the main custody camp and torture structure of the country, where over 17,000 people - rebels, intellectuals as well as some foreigners - have been imprisoned and killed during the regime.

It is located on street 113 and the entrance costs $2. The complete tour will take around one hour, and is something that I strongly recommend if you want to understand something more about the recent history of the country. It is, by the way, something very strong. If you are sensibles, maybe you should consider the idea of not going there.

The structure is divided into 4 buildings that surround a central court, where today you will find the 14 graves of the very last victims of Pol Pot's army, killed when the Vietnamese army was liberating Phnom Penh.

The very first thing that you will see entering the site, is a list of the rules (in a literal translation from khmer) that had to be followed by prisoners:

1. You must answer accordingly to my question. Don’t turn them away.
2. Don’t try to hide the facts by making pretexts this and that, you are strictly prohibited to contest me.
3. Don’t be a fool for you are a chap who dare to thwart the revolution.
4. You must immediately answer my questions without wasting time to reflect.
5. Don’t tell me either about your immoralities or the essence of the revolution.
6. While getting lashes or electrification you must not cry at all.
7. Do nothing, sit still and wait for my orders. If there is no order, keep quiet. When I ask you to do something, you must do it right away without protesting.
8. Don’t make pretext about Kampuchea Krom in order to hide your secret or traitor.
9. If you don’t follow all the above rules, you shall get many lashes of electric wire.
10. If you disobey any point of my regulations you shall get either ten lashes or five shocks of electric discharge. 

Building A

Is the first building that you will visit if you follow the direction of the tour. It was the area where tortures took place. Some of the instruments, as well as the camp bed where prisoners were enchained, have been left there. On the wall, the photos of the last tortured bodies that have been founded by the Vietnamese. Traces of blood are printed indelibly on the floor.
Detention cells can be founded as well.

Building B

The second building has been used as exposition site: all the photos of the victims can be founded here (often before and after the tortures), as well as the witnesses of the survived. Many panels have been installed to explain the history of the regime and of the camp.

Building C

The third, was a detention one. Small cells (1x2m), made in bricks or in wood. Try to get inside and to close the door. If you feel some empathy, you can imagine how hard would have been to be forced to live in there. The whole building is covered by barbed wire, to avoid prisoners to commit suicide.

Building D

Torture instruments can be founded here, together with some witnesses and photos of the victims.